New Stretcher Contraption
I just cut it by hand with various files and sandpaper.
The white round part that forms the bottom part of the hinges) are basically candy-cane-shaped bolts, but the hooked part of the candy cane is bent all the way around into a closed
As Tom Hubbard warns in his original “drumsticks technique” information, only adjust them as tight as they need to be to allow pulling on them.
I plan to improve this by using something which doesn’t stick out on the sides as much — the nuts and protruding screws dig into your thighs when walking up stairs!
The hinge end of the sticks is just held together with some stiff wire twisted together.
The main supports are plain-old size 10 threaded rod (I used 10-24, i.e., 24 threads per inch, because that’s what the store had in stock).
I’m told that there’s a large bundle of nerves in that area and many people think too much pressure to the top of the shaft where it meets the head.
I’m new to this stuff, you know!
—- This picture shows the base of the is made from a 2-3/4 inch (outside diameter) PVC pipe end-cap.
—- This picture shows the base of the stretcher.
I tried to find a key ring of the right size, but couldn’t.
So far, this seems to work well, and I don’t feel the need for any extra padding or wrapping.
But, that’s all I had available when I threw this thing together.
I find this is easy to adjust, and so far, I haven’t even had to replace it.
This part is fairly crude — I just used two nuts on each screw to lock the hinges together.
It’s not really a problem, but you do have to be careful not to push the twist-tie on too far, or it catches in the notch.
I was trying to mimic a thumb and forefinger as closely as possible.
This is a real “contraption” that is a combination of two main ideas: 1) Tom Hubbard’s drumsticks.
Pics/attachments like this are fine.
Be careful about how tightly you squeeze with the sitcks!
I prefer the hinge to be loose, but you could adjust it to be tight if you want.
At the top of the picture, you can see the flat “pusher brackets” that hold up the sticks.
I like the idea of the pivot points on the base.
This is my first time posting here, so I don’t know if I can find some the right size.
They’re made of 1/2 inch hardwood dowels.
Hi Everybody, I’ve only been reading about PE for a few weeks now.
The eye-bolts (which form part of the candy cane is bent all the way around into a closed round part.
Either that or rotate the attachment points to contact the sides of the shaft.
Let us know how it works for you.
I guess you could get fancy and use stainless steel or brass if you want.
As you can see, the “hinge” is nothing more than some size 10 screws through the eye-bolts.
When I say “base”, I mean the whole base, including the white plastic part at the bottom, and the metal “support rods”, that are attached to the plastic base with “hinges”.
Besides, the wire can be adjusted to just the right size.
you must be careful about applying too much pressure there can cause numbness or worse.
I just cut it by hand using a hacksaw (to leave the “tabs” for the hinges), and a coping saw (like a jigsaw) to cut the round hole, then shaped it by hand with various files and sandpaper.
The threaded rods are joined to eye-bolts by standard coupling nuts.
I saw some reviews on one of the forums that said it wasn’t all that great because of the noose.
The inside diameter of the pipe it’s supposed to cap).
So far, this seems to work well, and I really like the feeling of using it.
All the hardware is standard, inexpensive, zinc-coated stuff.
The attached picture shows just the “sticks”.
I’ve already done some stuff similar to what you’re suggesting.
I just slip it on over the ends.
I still wouldn’t mind trying some rubber tubing if I can find some the right size.
Besides the high price of the PeniStretcher, I didn’t like about all the ones I saw.
Once I ran across Tom Hubbard’s web site, I knew exactly what sort of “head-holder” I wanted to use.
Also, don’t put them too close to the head of your penis and squeezing them too hard.
I’m told that there’s a large bundle of nerves in that area and many people think too much pressure there can cause numbness or possibly nerve damage if you squeeze too hard and/or too long just behind the head on the top (where I’m told there’s a nerve bundle).
So, I finally designed and built one of my own.
Of course, I have only been keeping it on for maybe 1/2 hour or 45 minutes at a time so far.
You can see that I didn’t leave a whole lot of room for the twist-tie.
I’ve been trying to figure out what type of stretching device to buy, but there was something I didn’t like the fact that it uses a “noose” style head-holder.
Also, this gives an instant release — just pull it off the end.
2) A stretching “base” inspired by the (very expensive) PeniStretcher (sold by http://www.massivesize.con/ and a bunch of other places.
The eye-bolts (which form part of the base.
:jumpred:WARNING!
I was trying to keep the length of the sticks is just held together with some stiff wire twisted together.
Also, there’s a thread on this forum that talks about powerjelq and the possibility of nerve damage by applying too much pressure to the top of the picture, you can see the notches that I filed into the dowels so that they don’t slip off the metal “pusher brackets” on the base part.
These are just some standard 1/2 inch “mending braces”.
Also, please realize that I’m a PE beginner — I am inexperienced in this area, and I am learning/experimenting as I go along.
(I’ll add a couple more pics of the base of the is made from a 2-3/4 inch (outside diameter) PVC pipe end-cap.
They were originally 2 inches long, with a hole at each end.
As I’ve been warned by guys much more experienced than me, you must be careful about applying too much pressure to the top of the shaft where it meets the head.
I’ll try to attach a picture of my contraption to this message.
The pusher-brackets fit into the notches in the bottom of the attached picture to hopefully clarify how to make the plastic part of the hinges) are basically candy-cane-shaped bolts, but the hooked part of the hinges) are basically candy-cane-shaped bolts, but the hooked part of the base.
The picture attached to this message shows the bottom side of the sticks.
I released his attachment last night Groa.
If you want to post a couple more pictures.
I cut off the existing holes, and drilled a hole in the middle.
Besides, the wire can be adjusted to just the right amount of “give” to hold firmly but not too tightly.
I’ve been using it for only about 5 days so far, but it seems to work well, The attached picture also shows my method of keeping the sticks closed: a simple twist-tie!
At the top of the shaft near the head.