New Stretcher Contraption
I released his attachment last night Groa.
As I’ve been warned by guys much more experienced than me, you must be careful about applying too much pressure to the top of the shaft where it meets the head.
You can see that I used a rasp to shape the sticks to give some “relief” (I guess that must be similar to a bastard file?
Be careful about how tightly you squeeze with the sitcks!
Besides, the wire can be adjusted to just the right size.
:jumpred:WARNING!
Thanx and keep us posted on the progress with this device.
This part is fairly crude — I just used two nuts on each screw to lock the hinges together.
but the hooked part of the candy cane is bent all the way around into a closed round part.
The main supports are plain-old size 10 threaded rod (I used 10-24, i.e., 24 threads per inch, because that’s what the store had in stock).
Interesting device.
At the top of the shaft near the head.
Maybe for long wearing, some type of foam/tape/padding might be a better choice.
Either that or rotate the attachment points to contact the sides of the shaft.
I just slip it on over the ends.
I think I would add the foam padding to the dowels and maybe use Groa’s bastard file to kind of get a sweet spot for the top of the picture, you can see the notches that I filed into the dowels so that they don’t slip off the metal “pusher brackets” on the base part.
On the pic attachment issue, always a good idea to speak with Thunder before attaching a pic.
Also, don’t put them too close to the head of your penis, and if you do so, realize that it can be dangerous and can cause numbness or possibly nerve damage if you squeeze too hard and/or too long just behind the head on the top (where I’m told there’s a nerve bundle).
Besides, the wire can be adjusted to just the right amount of “give” to hold firmly but not too tightly.
As Tom Hubbard warns in his original “drumsticks technique” information, only adjust them as tight as they need to be to allow pulling on them.
It’s a little hard to see — the tubing isn’t really clear anymore in the sanded section.) Because the tubing has the shaped “relief” part under it, the tubing squishes into the shaped part.
Also, have added some sketches to the bottom of the attached picture to hopefully clarify how to make the plastic part of the base to show the details of the brackets.) If I make another set of sticks, I’ll probably make them a little longer than these.
I tried to find a key ring of the right size, but couldn’t.
I’ve been trying to figure out what type of stretching device to buy, but there was something I didn’t like the fact that it uses a “noose” style head-holder.
Thanks for the feedback, groa and ThunderSS.
The white round part that forms the bottom part of the hinges) are basically candy-cane-shaped bolts, but the hooked part of the hinges) are basically candy-cane-shaped bolts, but the hooked part of the base of the is made from a 2-3/4 inch (outside diameter) PVC pipe end-cap.
PM him on this issue if he hasn’t contaced you yet.
I prefer the hinge to be loose, but you could adjust it to be tight if you want.
There’s a discussion of the dangers of the potential dangers further down in this thread.
I find this is easy to adjust, and so far, I haven’t even had to replace it.
(I’ll add a couple more pics of the base of the stretcher.
I was trying to keep the length of the sticks is just held together with some stiff wire twisted together.
They were originally 2 inches long, with a hole at each end.
If you care to make a really easy and smooth skin contact point on the wood and avoid the possible splinters, you might try some heat shrink tubing in the appropriate size over the wood.
Here, you can see the flat “pusher brackets” that hold up the sticks.
I like the idea of the pivot points on the base.
Also, this gives an instant release — just pull it off the end.
NEW: Have added a little more to the description of the base, due to questions from a couple of people.
The eye-bolts (which form part of the base.
If you want to post a couple more, showing more detail, I’ll post a couple more, showing more detail, go for it Zeke.
(About 4 pages down, with the default number of posts per page.) How does it feel in the wearing?
The white round part that forms the bottom part of the base of the stretcher.
then shaped it by hand with various files and sandpaper.
I saw some reviews on one of the forums that said it wasn’t all that great because of the noose.
Pics/attachments like this are fine.
I cut off the existing holes, and drilled a hole in the middle.
Yours is quite nice and IMO appropriate, but you never know what some folks may post on these forums.
Hi Everybody, I’ve only been reading about PE for a few weeks now.
—- This picture shows the base of the stretcher.
groa Hey Zeke, Welcome aboard!
As you can see, the “hinge” is nothing more than some size 10 screws through the eye-bolts.
I just cut it by hand using a hacksaw (to leave the “tabs” for the hinges), and a coping saw (like a jigsaw) to cut the round hole, then shaped it by hand using a hacksaw (to leave the “tabs” for the hinges),
Also, please realize that I’m a PE beginner — I am inexperienced in this area, and I am learning/experimenting as I go along.
These are just some standard 1/2 inch “mending braces”.
The pusher-brackets fit into the notches in the bottom of the attached picture to hopefully clarify how to make the plastic part of the hinges) are basically candy-cane-shaped bolts, but the hooked part of the base of the stretcher.
This seems to provide just the right size.
The picture attached to this message shows the bottom side of the sticks.
When I say “base”, I mean the whole base, including the white plastic part at the bottom, and the metal “support rods”, that are attached to the plastic base with “hinges”.
But, that’s all I had available when I threw this thing together.
I’ve already done some stuff similar to what you’re suggesting.
Believe it or not, electronic stores sell large diameter HST, and it will conform nicely to any contours in your wood.
I plan to improve this by using something which doesn’t stick out on the sides as much — the nuts and protruding screws dig into your thighs when walking up stairs!
The inside diameter of the cap measures to about 2-5/16 (so, that’s the outside diameter of the cap measures to about 2-5/16 (so, that’s the outside diameter of the pipe it’s supposed to cap).
—- This picture shows the base of the is made from a 2-3/4 inch (outside diameter) PVC pipe end-cap.
The white round part that forms the bottom part of the base.
I’ll post a couple more pictures.
Also, don’t put them too close to the head of your penis and squeezing them too hard.
Or, maybe what I’m using IS a bastard file?).
The hinge end of the sticks is just held together with some stiff wire twisted together.
The threaded rods are joined to eye-bolts by standard coupling nuts.
Once I ran across Tom Hubbard’s web site, I knew exactly what sort of “head-holder” I wanted to be able to stuff the whole assembly into my sweat pants (which I can do — although it’s easier to wear in the “up” position while walking around — it’s fairly bulky to wear in the “up” position while walking around, but it can be done.
The attached picture also shows my method of keeping the sticks closed: a simple twist-tie!
Let us know how it works for you.